The Watermelon Chalice is a stunning LPS coral known for its neon green base, pink to red “rind,” and bright eyes. It’s not the hardest chalice to keep, but it does demand stable conditions and a bit of strategy in placement and feeding.

Placement, Lighting & Flow

Start your Watermelon Chalice low and shaded, then slowly adjust if needed. These corals often lose color or recede when blasted with light or flow.

• Lighting: Low to moderate PAR (60–120). If you’re running strong LEDs, place it on the sandbed or in a shaded ledge.
• Acclimation: Use a 2–3 week light acclimation mode or move the coral up no more than a few inches per week.
• Flow: Low to gentle, indirect flow. The tissue should sway slightly, not flap or expose skeleton.
• Space: Give at least 2–3 inches around it; chalices can extend sweeper tentacles at night.

Water Parameters & Feeding

Consistency matters more than chasing exact numbers. Aim for stable, “middle-of-the-road” reef parameters:

• Alkalinity: 8–9 dKH
• Calcium: 420–450 ppm
• Magnesium: 1300–1400 ppm
• Nitrate: 5–15 ppm; Phosphate: 0.03–0.08 ppm

Tip: If you see the edges lightening or receding, test alkalinity first—rapid swings are a common trigger.

Feeding for Color and Growth

• Target feed 1–2 times per week after lights out with small meaty foods (mysis, reef roids, fine pellet).
• Turn off pumps for 10–15 minutes so food stays on the coral’s surface.
• Watch for feeding response: tiny tentacles or “slime” grabbing food is a good sign.

With gentle light, soft flow, and stable nutrients, your Watermelon Chalice will reward you with intense color and a fast-enough growth rate to frag and share with other hobbyists.