Dialing in your reef tank equipment setup is one of the biggest steps toward a stable, thriving saltwater aquarium. The right gear, installed and tuned correctly, makes it easier to keep your corals colorful, your fish healthy, and your maintenance routine manageable.

Core Reef Tank Equipment (What You Really Need)

Before you plug in anything, make sure you’ve planned the full system. If you’re still deciding on tank size or layout, check out our guide on choosing your first reef tank for a solid starting point.

1. Filtration & Sump Setup

Your filtration is the heart of the system, quietly handling waste and stabilizing water quality.

• Sump: Adds water volume, hides equipment, and improves gas exchange. Divide sections for drain/skimmer, refugium (optional), and return pump.
• Protein skimmer: Choose a model rated for at least 1.5× your display volume. Place it in a sump chamber with a constant water level.
• Filter socks or cups: Catch large debris. Rinse or replace every 2–3 days to prevent nutrient buildup.
• Biological media: Live rock and/or ceramic media support beneficial bacteria. Avoid packing the sump so tight that flow is restricted.

Pro tip: Use a permanent marker to mark the skimmer’s ideal water level on the sump. It makes troubleshooting much easier later.

2. Return Pump & Flow

Stable, oxygen-rich water movement is critical in a reef tank.

• Return pump: Aim for 5–10× display volume per hour after head loss. Use flexible tubing and unions so you can remove the pump for cleaning.
• Powerheads or wavemakers: Target 20–40× tank volume per hour in total flow for most mixed reefs. Point them slightly toward the surface for gas exchange without blasting corals directly.
• Controller modes: Random or reef crest modes help avoid dead spots and detritus buildup.

Lighting, Heating & Essential Support Gear

3. Reef Lighting Setup

Lighting drives coral growth and color. When planning your fixture layout, consider tank dimensions and coral placement. For more detail, see our in-depth article on reef lighting basics.

• LEDs or T5/LED hybrids: Choose reef-capable fixtures with proven spectrums (blue-heavy for corals).
• Mounting height: Typically 8–10 inches above the water surface to blend colors and reduce hotspots.
• Photoperiod: 8–10 hours of main lights with a gentle blue ramp-up and ramp-down.

Pro tip: Start new lights at 30–50% intensity and increase slowly over several weeks to avoid shocking corals.

4. Temperature & Stability Gear

• Heater: Use 3–5 watts per gallon, split into two smaller heaters for redundancy. Place them in high-flow sump sections.
• Temperature controller: Adds a safety layer if a heater sticks on or fails.
• Auto top-off (ATO): Keeps salinity stable by automatically replacing evaporated water with fresh RO/DI.
• Basic test kits: At minimum, monitor salinity, temperature, alkalinity, and nitrate.

Mount all power strips and controllers above the sump on a dry board, with drip loops on every cord. Label each plug so you know exactly what you’re turning off during maintenance.

Putting It All Together & First Wet Test

Once everything is plumbed, wired, and mounted, perform a freshwater leak test before adding salt mix or rock. Run the system for several hours and:

• Check all unions, bulkheads, and hoses for drips.
• Confirm the sump can handle backflow when the return pump is off.
• Fine-tune skimmer water level and overflow noise.

After a successful test, drain, refill with saltwater, and begin cycling. From there, your gear will do the heavy lifting while you enjoy the display. For your next step, read our guide to reef tank cycling so your new equipment setup supports a safe, stable start for all your future livestock.

With a thoughtful equipment layout, proper sizing, and a little patience, you’ll have a quiet, efficient reef system that’s easier to maintain and a joy to watch for years to come.